In November, 2019 I toured a number of Mexican ganaderías (bull breeding ranches) in southern and central Mexico with the Peña Taurina Redondél of Sacramento, California.
One of the highlights was a visit to the lovely Hacienda San Antonio Tepetzala. The hacienda is located north of Apizaco, in the taurine-rich state of Tlaxcala.
The hacienda traces its roots to 1530, just nine years after Hernán Cortes landed in Mexico.
Its use as a ganadería dates to 1951. The ganadería's founder was don Cirilo Sánchez Piedras and his brother, Emilio. Don Cirilo's son, Emilio Sánchez Rivera and his wife Stephanie Quintero Bonilla are the present owners, and were our very gracious hosts.
The entrance to the Hacienda.
The peaceful courtyard:
Emilio shares some of the documents relating to the original land grant.
Touring the countryside where the bulls and cows grazed. We were happy to be out of harm's way up in the flat-bed trailer pulled by a tractor!
When fighting bulls are together in the countryside, they are usually tranquil, but their innate aggression sometimes shows, like this one attacking a bush!
Ramón González is a tlachiquero (one who collects agave juice for use in pulque). He demonstrates how the aguamiel (agave juice) is extracted from the heart of the agave into the large gourd he holds, and is then transferred to the large containers on the back of the hard-working burro.
A rock that covers the heart of the maguey is removed, revealing the aguamiel. The rock is replaced after collection and Ramón will return in a day or two to collect more.
Pepe Buenaventura samples the aguamiel after a rough filtration.
The aguamiel arrives by burro to the warehouse, where it will be fermented:
After two or three days fermenting in large vats, we have pulque! (in the pitcher)
Pulque was the first fermented drink in Mexico, known to the indigenous tribes. It fell out of favor in the 20th century with the arrival of beer etc., but is now enjoying a small revival.
The lovely chapel:
Antique implements in the old kitchen:
At the bar!
Custom-made shot glasses bearing the brand of the ganadería. The glasses are made by an artisan in nearby Huamantla.
Armando admires a portrait of Juan Belmonte:
Ganaderías in Mexico serve a vital role in preserving undeveloped land for wildlife.
A Canyon Towhee:
Bewick's Wren:
Vermilion Flycatcher:
